|
BUILD
YOUR OWN MINIATURE 'MATCHBOX' RADIO
Worried
About Soldering? Don't Be:
For some simple ideas on solderless construction techniques have a look
at the Crystal Sets 2
and the Crystal Sets 5
pages. While the
ultimate miniaturisation cannot be achieved with solderless techniques,
it is still possible to produce a working project in this
way.
When constructing these small electronic projects it will be necessary
to determine the exact value of resistors, which are colour coded, and
capacitors, which sometimes have confusing numbers on them. I
have
included a table for both Resistor Colour Codes and a Capacitor
Conversion Table HERE.
TRF RADIOS (Part 1)
INTRODUCTION
In the very
early days of
wireless a TRF (Tuned Radio Frequency) radio was the next step up from
a
crystal set. It offered amplification of both the
radio
frequency and the audio frequencies so that more stations could be
received more strongly and the sounds produced would be amplified
sufficiently to power a loudspeaker.
From the 1920' to the 1940's it was the glass thermionic valve,
the forerunner to
the transistor, that was the only component available for such
amplification. A valve is quite a large device, about the
size of
an eggcup and looking a little like a small lightbulb. The
valve
needs its internal working parts , the anode and cathode, to be heated
to operate (hence the term THERMionic) and so a valve contains
filiaments that glow red hot. Valve radios would consequently
get
quite warm and therefore use quite a lot of power requireing several
large batteries or mains power to operate. The valve
filiaments
needing just a few volts to get hot, while the voltage required to
obtain a flow of electrons in the anode would need 100 volts or
more.
Later radios dispensed with the TRF technology in favour of the more
sensitive and selective 'superhet' (supersonic heterodyne)
method. If the set is in good working order the
wireless
listener will no doubt be rewarded with a wonderfully rich and warm
sound quality. Many of these original valve sets had
beautifully
hand-crafted wooden cabinets which would often enclose a large
loudspeaker that produced the fine sound quality.
Old mains valve radios can be very dangerous to dismantle and 'play
around' with as they invariable have a live metal chassis. As
this
chassis will be at 230 volts mains potential the effect of a
mis-positioned digit could be fatal, so I advise against this
practice. Instead have a go at building a modern day TRF
radio
using the latest solid state (i.e. silicon transistors) technology,
which operates at low power and with very low current
consumption.
It was not until the introduction of the transistor in the mid 1950's
that radio sets could be made smaller and truly portable and consume
much less power, making battery operation a practicality.
Building a TRF set today is quite straightforward as small transistors
or IC's (Integrated Circuits containing several
transistors and other components in a small sealed device) will require
only battery power in the order of 1.5 to 6 or 9 volts to
operate.
As mentioned a TRF radio has its limitations and was superceeded by the
Superhet,
which is a
principle used
in all modern receivers, but the results achieved with modern
components
can be outstanding.
The TRF radios
described here
all use transistorised circuits, though
some of the the circuit layouts are fairly similar to some early simple
valve TRF radios.
BUILD
A RADIO IN A MATCHBOX !

|
The rather battered magazine
cover
of Everyday Electronics
|
THE MATCHBOX RECEIVER
When my dad came home one night in the 1970's with a copy of Everyday Electronics
magazine I was fascinated by an article describing how to home-build a
radio so small that it would fit into a matchbox. I was a
schoolboy taken with the hobby of radio and had recently built a
regenerative radio described in the Ladybird book "Making A Transistor Radio".
This
book was given to me as a birthday present from an aunt and the method
of construction used was a simple solderless breadboard that trapped
the
component leads with number 6 brass woodscrews and screwcups.
The Matchbox Receiver, on the other hand, required careful soldering of
the components into a circuit board to achieve the small size needed to
fit into a case as small as a matchbox. I did not have a
soldering
iron, I was too young.
Dad did
have a soldering
iron,
it was not electric though and had to be heated over a gas
flame!
We spent several hours in the kitchen heating this big iron over the
gas
hob and soldering the tiny components onto the circuit board.
The matchbox receiver uses just two main components, one that I was
familiar with - a transistor (the BC107), and a component new to me at
the time, an Integrated Circuit (I.C.) containing no less than ten
transistors inside a tiny TO-18 style can. The I.C. used is
the
Ferranti ZN414 which contains a high gain RF amplifier stage offering
up
to 72dB of gain, a detector stage and a.g.c. stage.
The ZN414 has a very high input impedance of around 4meg Ohms which
minimises any loading of the tuned circuit thereby improving
selectivity, which is important when being used in a simple TRF radio
such as is being described. The useable tuning range
available
from the ZN414 is from 150kHz (Long Wave) through Medium Wave and up to
3000kHz. Current consumption is tiny, making it very suitable
for
the matchbox radio powered by a silver-oxide button cell.
Once dad and I had soldered everything together and assembled the parts
into a matchbox I think that we were both amazed that it
worked!
We received BBC Radio Four on 285 meters, Radio Three on 464 meters,
Radio One on 247 meters, Radio Birmingham on 206 meters and BRMB on 261
meters.
|

A
Matchbox Radio
(This particular one uses the ZN415 IC - see the notes further down the
page)
|
In 1975 the idea of being able
to build a
complete working radio that would fit inside an ordinary matchbox
seemed
absolutely amazing. Today it is run of the mill of course,
but
the
article from Everyday Electronics of Sept 1975 is still really
interesting.
As mentioned, it uses the Ferranti ZN414 integrated circuit which is no
longer available, but the direct replacement MK484 can be used with
confidence and is widely available from many outlets including Bowood
Electronics , as are a
ferrite rods, fixed capacitors, resistors, preset pots and 500pF
trimmers. You may also have some similar and useful components in your
junk box. The circuit could still be made up using a
miniature
tuning capacitor salvaged from a discarded Chinese pocket
radio.
See the alternative circuits too.
Another equivalent to the ZN414 and MK484 is, I am informed, the TA7642
which is available from Rapid Electronics.
I have now built
a couple of these radios and another one using the ZN415 I.C. which
includes an additional buffer stage of audio amplification.
So have a look at the article a little further down the page, I'm sure
that you'll find it fascinating.
|
DID
YOU KNOW?
Electronic
component sizes are be
effectively reduced by half every 18 months!
The same progress in design
and
manufacture enables computer processor (CPU) speeds to be doubled every
18 months.
This effect of miniaturisation
is quite
noticeable even when working with the very ordinary components involved
in the construction of this matchbox radio project, i.e. components
with
leads intended for use on an ordinary circuit board.
When I
first built this
radio in the late 1970's the resistors and capacitors were two or three
times the size of the ones I used when re-building the project with
current components. This helps greatly with construction
inside a
matchbox.
However
this process of
miniaturisation has progressed beyond the 'ordinary' components that
are
used in everyday 'home-brew' projects, since there is a limit to how
small such a component can be and remain useable on standard circuit
boards. Today's powerful personal computers, laptops, mobile
'phones and digital cameras are all made possible by the use of very
large scale integrated circuits and minuaturised 'surface mount'
components such as resistors and capacitors that are the size of a pin
head! These are rather more difficult to work with for the
home
constructor.
|

|
Photograph
showing
how components have
been reduced in size as
time has progressed
The top two are 0.01µF ceramic disc capacitors, the left one
from
the 1970's and the right one from 2003
The bottom two are resistors, the left one a 0.5 watt from the 1970's
and the right one from 2003
|
THE EVERYDAY
ELECTRONICS 'MATCHBOX RECEIVER' ARTICLE
(I had
drawn a pair of IN4148 diodes into the circuit shown below which are
not
absolutely necessary, but acted to set the exact voltage required by
the
ZN414 (MK484 or TA7642). Disregard my other pencil jottings.)
|
|
|
|
Notes About
Components On
The Above Article:
The ZN414
I.C. can be replaced
with
the current MK484 chip or the TA7642.
The BC107
transistor can be replaced with a BC547, a BC182 or a ZTX300 (and other
general purpose devices may work equally well).
I found that the
680K biasing resistor could be replaced with a 470K or even a 100K
without detriment.
I used a 1.55 Volt
Silver Oxide battery and found that the 1K preset potentiometer must be
replaced with 10k preset pot to give an adequate range of control over
gain.
When using a
Crystal Earphone a resistor of between 4.7k and 10k needs to be
included
from the collector of the BC107 to the positive rail (after the
switched
jack socket) i.e. across the earphone terminals. This will
not
effect the use of 1000 ohm earphones / earpieces.
Also, have a look at the
further
information below for some more tips.
SO GO
AHEAD... GET BUILDING!
|

The
Pin-Out
Arrangement of the ZN414 and
MK484 Integrated Circuits. The TA7642 is
apparently the same as the MK484.
Try to avoid overheating the IC when soldering and keep the wiring of
the whole circuit as neat as is possible to avoid unwanted oscillations
that could occur with untidy wiring.
|
PARTS LIST
1
: MK484 (or TA7642 or
ZN414) Integrated Circuit
1 : BC107 or BC547 or ZTX300 Transistor
1
: 500pF
Miniature Postage Stamp Trimmer Capacitor
1
: Crystal
(Ceramic) Earphone
1 : 0.01
µF
Ceramic (or similar) Capacitor (103)
1 : 0.1
µF
Ceramic (or similar) Capacitor (104)
1 : 0.047uF
(0.05µF) Ceramic (or
similar) Capacitor (473)
2: 100k
Ohm ¼ watt
Resistor
1 :
470 Ohm
¼ watt Resistor
1 :
4.7k Ohm
¼ watt Resistor (optional)
1 :
10k
Miniature Preset Potentiometer
1 :
10mm Dia
Ferrite Rod 100 or 150 mm long
1 :
Reel of
0.5mm (approx) Enamelled Copper Wire
1 :
3.5 mm Jack
Socket (for earphone)
1 : AA Battery Holder
1 :
1.5 Volt AA
Battery
1 : On/Off Switch (optional)
1
:
Tagboard or Verostrip board
BOWOOD ELECTRONICS
is a useful source for many of these components
You May Also Try:
J Birkett, The Strait, Lincoln for surplus items such as capacitors
Maplin Electronics for many other components
|
|
AERIAL
COIL
DETAILS
MEDIUM
WAVE: 60
to 65 Turns of 0.5 mm dia enamelled
copper wire on a 10mm dia Ferrite Rod of about 35 to 40 mm long.
LONG
WAVE: As
above but with 250 turns of wire.
|
|
MY REBUILT MATCHBOX
RECEIVER
My
original matchbox receiver had got rather battered and worn, so being
as
I needed to solder a new battery into place I took the opportunity to
refurbish the radio. I used the original Ferranti ZN414 i.c.
,
BC107 transistor and 500pF trimmer capacitor used for tuning.
The
resistors and capacitors I replaced with new smaller ones and I also
replaced the circuit board and the 3.5mm jack socket with a new one as
the original looked rather corroded. A 4.7k resistor was
also
included across the earphone output as I use these radios with a
crystal
earpiece, as mentioned above. I also replaced the medium wave
coil
with a Long Wave coil (purchased from Maplin Electronics) so that the
radio could tune into 198 kHz for BBC Radio Four and also 252 kHz for
RTÉ Radio One.
(I built another matchbox
radio, using
the newer MK484 i.c, and this covers Medium Wave. See further down this
page. A TA7642 could also be used).
|

|
The photo
above is a
little trip through England's Glory matchbox history. The box
top
left is from 2004, and the box top right is probably from the 1990's
while the box at the bottom is probably from the early
1980's.
Incidentally England's Glory matches are now made in Sweden - so
shouldn't they be called Sweden's Glory?
|
| SCRAPE OFF
THE VERO-STRIPS
UNDERNEATH THE FERRITE-ROD AERIAL! |

|
The
photograph above shows
the underside of the VeroStrip board that I used to build the matchbox
radio. Note how three rows of copper strips have been removed
using a sharp blade. The ferrite rod aerial sits above this
area
and leaving the copper in place reduces the "Q" (the effectiveness) of
the tuned circuit very makedly.
Leaving the strips in place would result in poorer selectivity and
sensitivity of the radio and thereby rather poor reception. I
strongly recommend removing any strips from immediately below the
ferrite rod aerial when constructing such a radio. Also keep
the
aerial away from any other metal objects that will marr the reception. |

|
Above photo is a close up
look at the
re-built ZN414 matchbox radio
with the
new Long Wave
tuning coil.
|
DON'T DESPAIR
Don't despair if you cannot find some of the
components required for the Matchbox Receiver. The resistors
will
be no problem, of course, and can be 1/4 Watt, 1/2 Watt or 0.6 Watt at
any tolorance. The capacitors can be Ceramic Disc, Resin
Dipped
Ceramic or Polyester and the values stated should not be varied for
best
performance.
As mentioned elsewhere the ZN414 is no longer available but the MK484
i.c. is widely and there should be no problem obtaining one of these.
The TA7642 is another equivalent to the ZN414.
There will be no difficulty in finding a small piece of 10mm diameter
ferrite rod and some 0.5mm dia, enamelled copper wire for the aerial.
There may be a little difficulty in finding the 500pF postage-stamp
trimmer, and the 6BA brass screw and nut to extend the tuning shaft,
but some careful searching should be rewarded with the necessary items.
AlternativesTo
The 500pF Trimmer For Tuning
Since components are so small these days, there will be an opportunity
to use a miniature 200pF (approx) poly-dialectric (polyvaricon) tuning
capacitor of the type that may be salvaged from a pocket transistor
radio and that is generally more widely available from component
suppliers. This would take up more space in the matchbox and
the
tuning knob would protude from the back face of the box rather from one
end. With careful re-arrangement of the components and some
neat
soldering there is a very good chance that everything could be still be
accommodated in a matchbox, though I have not tried this yet.
Another alternative would be to have the matchbox receiver permanently
tuned to a favourite station. The tuning circuit could then consist of
a
fixed capacitor of perhaps 50pF or 100pF or even a miniature trimming
capacitor of similar value. The required favourite station
could
then be set by experimenting with the number of turns on the coil, and
'fine-tuned' with the small value trimmer, if that is what is
used. Thisis just an idea but then the receiver would easily
fit
inside a matchbox.
The 3.5 jack socket has to be the open type, i.e. not enclosed in a
plastic case, so that the switching operation can be changed from
opening when the earphone plug is inserted, to closing when the plug is
inserted. A pair of pointed nose pliers is all that is
required
to
bend the switching contacts into the required position.
|
ANOTHER
OF MY MATCHBOX RADIOS
This
One
Using The MK484 IC
|
|
|
I have recently built another
matchbox
receiver, which
is shown
above and
uses the MK484, a
replacement for the
ZN414. This radio uses a ZTX300 transistor as the audio
output
device which, in this case, has a 100K biasing resistor, rather than
the
680K resistor specified in the Everyday Electronics magazine article
above. In fact a BC107, a ZTX300 or a BC547
transistor can
be used in this circuit, with a 100k biasing resistor all with equally
good results.
I strongly recommend using a crystal earphone rather than the high
impedance magnetic earphone referred to in the article since such
earphones are almost impossible to come by. My own Matchbox
radio
will drive a pair of 32 Ohm 'Walkman' type headphones to reasonable
volume when the two earpieces are wired in SERIES to provide a 64 Ohm
load, but a crystal earphone is much MUCH louder which means that more
of the weaker stations can be heard.
I therefore
recommend
the use a crystal earphone, however a 4.7K Ohm resistor (up to about
10K
works) needs to be soldered across the earphone output; i.e. between
the
collector of TR1 (the BC107, BC547 or ZTX300) and the positive (+ve)
rail - before the preset potentiometer and after the on/off switch (or
switched jack socket if that method of swiching is employed, as it is
in
my radio).
I would
also recommend
the use of a 10k preset potentiometer to set the gain, as my radio was
far too loud and rather distorted when using a new 1.55 volt silver
oxide button cell and even a 4.7K preset potentiometer could not
introduce enough resistance into the circuit to sufficiently reduce the
gain. The 10K pot works very well in my set.
As with all these designs don't forget to scrape off the copper strips
from the Veroboard below the area where the ferrite rod aerial will be
mounted. Failure to remove these strips will not prevent the
radio
from working, but the performance of the tuned circuit will be marred.
Circuit Diagram To Follow
|
|
|
Photograph
showing a close-up of the inside
of my Matchbox Radio
The tiny silver oxide battery is covered in black insulating tape.
The skeletal jack socket has been modified so that the contacts make a
circuit when inserting
the earphone jack plug rather than breaking the
circuit as is usually the case.
This then automatically switches
the radio on when the earphone is plugged in.
|
|
SOME
ALTERNATIVE MK484 (ZN414) (TA7642) CIRCUITS
(Which
Also
Work Really Well!)
Even simpler than the 'Matchbox Radio' descibed in the above 1975
Everyday Electronics article would be to use the circuit below which
omits the amplification (BC107 transistor) stage. The ZN414,
TA7642 or
MK484 is still able to drive a simple Crystal earpiece to reasonable
volume, though obviously not as loud as with the additional transistor
included. This approach would make it even easier to assemble
the
receiver into a matchbox. I have also constructed this set
(though
not inside a matchbox) and it works brilliantly with a simple crystal
earpiece. I decided to use a 4 inch (10cm) long ferrite rod,
which
produces better signal pick-up so that stations will be more clearly
heard.
The aerial coil consists of 60 turns of 0.56mm diameter enamelled
copper wire which gives good coverage of the Medium Wave band even when
using a small 220 pF tuning capacitor. Battery power is again
only
1.5 volts, this time I used a penlight AA cell which will last for a
very very long time indeed. The 10k Ohm preset pot sets the
internal gain of the MK484 integrated circuit and while not critical in
many cases careful adjustment is needed in strong signal areas to help
prevent overloading.
Keep construction of the circuit very neat with component leads as
short as is practicable. Ideally the radio should be built on
a
small piece of VeroStrip, but if you wish to experiment with components
and values then an ordinary piece of tag-board will be quite
suitable. A 6 x 6 tag board will be more than adequate for
this
circuit and I have built these sets in this way very successfully, but
bear in mind to keep the output components and battery away from the
coil and tuning capacitor.
Other component values should be adhered to to obtain best results, the
0.1uF capacitor at Pin 1 (output) of the MK484, the 100k Ohm resistor
and the 470 Ohm resistor should not really be changed. The
0.01µF capacitor can be experimented with and could be
between
0.01 and 0.0068 µF. The 0.05µF output
de-coupling
capacitor is not too critical and the resistor across the crystal
earpiece could be 2.7K Ohm 4.7K, 6.8K perhaps up to 10K
depending
on the particular earphone used. I found that a 2.7K resistor
allows my crystal earphone to work very effectively indeed.
The
battery voltage should not be changed and shoud be between 1.4 and 1.6
volts. Either an original Ferranti ZN414 IC or the later
MK484 IC
can be used in these circuits, the newer MK484 may work even
better than the excellent, but now obsolete, ZN414.
|

The
Pin-Out Arrangement of the ZN414 and
MK484 (TA7642) Integrated Circuits.
Try to avoid overheating the IC when soldering and keep the wiring of
the whole circuit as neat as is possible to avoid unwanted oscillations
that could occur with untidy wiring.
AERIAL
COIL
DETAILS
MEDIUM
WAVE:
60
Turns of 0.5 mm dia enamelled copper wire on a 10mm dia Ferrite Rod of
between 100 and 150 mm long
LONG
WAVE: As
above but with 250 turns of wire with the coil ideally being shunted
with a 220k Ohm resistor
Maplin
Electronics have been selling a 10mm diameter ferrite rod with a
pre-wound medium wave and long wave coil included and this may provide
another option.
|

+
See note below
PARTS
LIST
1
: MK484 (or TA7642 or
ZN414) Integrated Circuit
1
: 220pF or 500pF Tuning Capacitor
1
: Crystal (Ceramic) Earphone
1
:
0.01 µF Ceramic (or similar) Capacitor (103)
1
:
0.1 µF Ceramic (or similar) Capacitor (104)
1 : 0.047uF
(0.05µF) Ceramic (or
similar) Capacitor (473)
1 : 100k
Ohm ¼
watt Resistor
1 : 470
Ohm ¼
watt Resitor
1 : 2.7k
(or 4.7k) Ohm
¼ watt Resistor
1 : 10k
Preset
Potentiometer
1 : 10mm
Dia Ferrite
Rod 100 or 150 mm long
1 : Reel
of 0.5mm
(approx) Enamelled Copper Wire
1 : 3.5
mm Jack Socket
(for earphone)
1 : AA Battery Holder
1 : 1.5
Volt AA Battery
1 : On/Off Switch (optional)
1
: Tagboard or
Verostrip board
BOWOOD ELECTRONICS
is a useful source for many of these components
You May Also Try:
J Birkett, The Strait, Lincoln for surplus items such as capacitors
Maplin Electronics for many other components
|
+ Our
correspondent
Chas Castagana, in the USA, had some trouble with this circuit he
writes:
I constructed
this circuit as close to your specs as I could, ...perhaps it may be
better to feed the output into an external transistor amplifier
stage.
I
think Chas may
have been using headphones which possibly may not work as well as a
Crystal Earphone that I had intended.
This
design can certainly be fed into a
descrete transistor amplifier stage and will give excellent results in
this way, but even connecting the crystal earphone between the output
and ground (as shown) I find that there is a more than useable audio
output on all local stations. It is worth including the
circuit
here due to its simplicity and good performance. it may also
be
worth experimenting with connecting the cystal earphone between the
output, via 0.05 uF capacitor, and the positive rail (i.e. to the
positive side of the battery) and connecting the 47k Ohm resistor
across
the earphone output. Either way I don't think constructors
will
be disappointed. Thanks Chas for the input!
|
|
The Working Single Chip MK484 Radio Constructed On A Piece Of VeroStrip
|
|
At our
location I can
receive the three national stations, BBC Five Live, Talk Sport and
Virgin Radio from a main transmitter about 25-30 miles away plus BBC
Five Live from a main transmitter about 80 miles away. Two
low
power local stations (0.1 and 0.2 kW) are also received at good
strength
from their transmitter 6 miles away plus a community station (only
0.001kW) which is about 4 miles away together with three other local
stations (3 to 6 kW) about 15-20 miles away. At night a
number of
other broadcasts can be heard easily, e.g. 1440 from Luxembourg and
1512
kHz from Belgium (of course) and some others too such as 567 kHz from
Eire and 675 kHz from The Netherlands.
|
|
ADDITIONAL AUDIO
AMPLIFICATION
USING THE BC548 TRANSISTOR
The MK484 receiver shown below uses a BC548 transistor as the audio
output stage. It also uses a larger ferrite rod aerial for
better
signal pick-up, a standard "AA" battery cell and a widely available
miniature polyvaricon tuning capacitor of approximately 200pF for ease
of construction. This really is a superb radio!
|
|
|
|
Above
the completed
"Cook's Matchbox Radio"
Housed in a larger matchbox to accommodate a longer ferrite rod aerial
for improved pick-up
and a standard "AA" battery cell together with the more orthodox
polyvaricon type
tuning capacitor. The larger housing also makes construction
a
little easier.
See the circuit diagram for this radio below:
|
Above: Circuit Diagram For The Excellent MK484 (or TA7642 or ZN414)
with the
BC548 transistor stage of amplification.
The tuning capacitor can be any standard type of between about 200pF
and 500pF and the polyvaricon
type commonly found in pocket radios and should be available new from
many component suppliers.
A crystal earpiece should be used, although excellent results may be
obtained with a pair of good quality and
sensitive 32 Ohm 'Walkman' type headphones. If these
earphones
are to be used, the 32 Ohm earpieces must
be wired in SERIES so that the total load is 64 Ohms. This
can be
arranged by using a stereo jack socket and
connecting the output across the first two (small) rings of the
headphone plug and making no connection to the
upper (longer) part of the plug which is the common/ground connection
of the 'phones.
|
|
THE
ZN415E and ZN416E
Have a look at the circuit
below which
uses the ZN415 integrated circuit, and is certainly worth using if you
happen to have one in your 'junk box'. The ZN415 includes an
additional buffer stage which increases the output from the 30 to 60
millivolts produced by the ZN414E up to about 100 to 120 millivolts,
enough to directly drive a pair of walkman typre headphones.
The
two 32 ohm earpieces must be arranged so that they are wired in series
to give the necessary 64 ohm load. The ZN415 makes assembley even
easier.
The ZN416E
is similar
to
the ZN415E except that the output is raised still further to abot 300
to
330 miliivolts.
|

Circuit
digram of the
Ferranti ZN415 single chip radio. This circuit can also be
used
for the later higher output ZN416 and ZN416E integrated circuits - if
you can find one.
|
The ZN415 / ZN416 / ZN416E
is, like the
ZN414, also discontinued by Ferranti, but you may be able to find one
from somewhere, there may even be a replacement IC, but I have not come
across one.
|
READER'S MK484 RADIOS:
Click HERE
to see some
MDS975 Reader's Radios >>
T.R.F.
RADIOS PART 2 >>>>
THE LADYBIRD
THREE
TRANSISTOR RADIO
THE HAC
"HEARD ALL
CONTINENTS RADIO"
MORE
TRF RADIOS - PART 3 >>>
READER'S RADIOS
>>>
TRF
RADIOS - PART 4 >>>
Including
The Medium Wave Mini >>>
TRF RADIOS - PART 5
>>>
|
RESISTOR
COLOUR CODES
AND CAPACITOR
CONVERSION
TABLE >>>
Having
difficulty in finding components? I am adding some ideas for
component sources here.
Sources For Older Components
>>>
|
|
From Liz Costa:
"Hi,
MDS975 folk. I bought a MK484 from Maplin and didn't have a circuit for
it so I entered the chip number into Google and I was taken directly to
your site. You've given better and more detailed info on this than
Maplin have and I certainly will be building the TRF soon. By the way I
also LOVE pussycats. Yours are really georgous! Thanks for a
great site! "
Liz Costa 2E1FQN
From
Dave Summer:
Hello Mike
An interesting site. I have made valve TRF radios since a boy in the
50’s. I heard about 60 amateur countries on a two valve 1.4
volt
set using AM. I know many hints and kinks about making these sets work.
Another good circuit is to use a valve followed by a transistor. If you
use a 6.3 volt mains valve, such as the 6AK5 or 6AM6, it can work
perfectly OK with 6.3V HT as well, and is very sensitive. Of course, if
you use an RF stage the set is isolated from the aerial, which is more
steady in frequency. I find the 1.4 valves to be poor performers and
prone to microphony.
If you want the set for short wave reception, you can use it in
oscillating mode for CW, SSB and AM. In the case of AM, if you use a
high anode load resistor, the circuit pulls-in slightly to the carrier.
But if you do not like this, use a low resistor, then it does not. In
practice, these two conditions are best obtained using a pentode with
its screen acting as the oscillator anode. Use either a high screen
dropper resistor, or a low resistance 5k potential divider for the
screen depending if you want pull-in or not.
Modern valves are very high gain, and will work down to a few volts of
HT. It is necessary to avoid too much regen. A good way is to use a
trimmer as the grid condenser, as a small capacitance of say 5 pF may
be all that is needed. If you use a small grid condenser, you are in
fact tapping the grid down the coil – it is an impedance
matching
action.
Always locate the grid condenser right at the grid, with a short lead;
this prevents hum pick-up.
As for aerial coupling, the best way is via a small trimmer. In this
way, the loading can be adjusted. A coupling coil is not so
satisfactory and may introduce unwanted resonances and dead spots.
A resonant aerial is not desirable as it causes rapid changes in
loading across the band. Choose a length such as a third of a
wavelength.
If you want bandspread, a good method is to tap the bandspread
capacitor down the coil, until it just gives the swing you want.
As far as hand-capacitance goes, this is a big problem and makes the
use of traditional baseboard sets more or less useless. To avoid hand
capacitance you must have the set in an enclosed metal box, and the
phones lead must be decoupled.
RF chokes are a bit undesirable, but the Hartley oscillator (cathode
tapped into the coil) avoids their use. Regen can usually be obtained
using a resistor instead of a choke.
If you use an iron cored choke in the detector anode circuit, I believe
the circuit will suffer from threshold howl.
If you use a battery valve, or you need more gain from a valve with
very low HT, you can take the grid leak to a positive supply, either
filament positive or HT. This increases gain but reduces overload
capacity.
Finally, you cannot use a long wave ferrite rod in a set using a power
audio IC, as the chip ”radiates” noise in the long
wave
band which will be picked up by the rod, and the circuit will howl.
Finally, finally, although not TRF, a superb simple superhet can be
made using a crystal controlled mixer ECH81 etc followed by an ordinary
low frequency TRF.
I hope these things are of some interest!!
Dave
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