CRYSTAL
SETS Parts: 1 3 4 5
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CRYSTAL SETS 2: SOME PRACTICAL
DESIGNS
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I
hope that you attempt building one or two of these crystal set designs
and I really do recommend that the components are carefully connected
up
using soldered joints onto a piece of tag-strip for reliability.
However if you are new to constructing such electronic circuits then
some simple solderless techniques could be employed and these are
suggessted at the bottom of the page. Also see Crystal Sets Part 5
for more ideas on experimenting with crystal sets.
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An
early and very basic crystal set would have been nothing more than a
coil of wire, perhaps 50 -100 turns, wound around a cardboard tube
about
3 inches (7cm) in diameter, a detector (or cats whisker) and a pair of
special High Impedence headphones (as discussed in part 1).
There would be a very large aerial strung up around the garden and the
all important connection to earth.
The coil would have tapping points (connection points) at intervals of
around 5 or 10 turns. See the circuit diagram on the right for
details of who the set is wired together.
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A very basic crystal
set circuit.
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The tapping points on the coil allow the set to be tuned to different
frequencies by adjusting the position of tap B. Tap B would be
connected to the coil at differenty positions by way of a crocadile
clip. The fewer turns between the top (aerial end) of the coil
and
tap B, the shorter the wavelength received (ie the higher the
frequency). Tap A would allow the detector to be connected at
different positions to vary performance. There is an
additional component drawn in the above diagram, the capacitor (value 1000pF), this is
included in crystal sets that used the High
Impedence magnetic headphones, and bypassed any remaining radio
frequencies (RF) to earth. I have not built the set described
above as it is so basic.

The
Standard Crystal
Set
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The crystal set above
would probably have been adequate in 1920 - 1923 when there would have
been only one local transmitter receivable. When the BBC
expanded transmissions and it became possible to hear more than a
single
station it would have became necessary to include a more convenient
means of tuning the set.
This was achieved by including a Variable Tuning Capacitor, of about
500pF (0.0005uF) connected in parallel with the tuning coil forming a tuned circuit. The tuning
capacitor would have a bakelite knob on the spindle to aid tuning.
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Because of the simplicity of
crystal sets, it is often difficult to separate stations. When
tuned into one station it is often possible to hear another close by
station in the background, this is due to lack of selectivity. This can be
reduced somewhat by adjusting the positions of the Aerial Tap and
Detector Tap. Moving them closer to the bottom of the coil, the
earthy end, reduces the load on the tuned circuit and this improves
selectivity, however it does also reduce sensitivity which can make the
station quieter. Headphones will often swamp a tuned
circuit
and reduce its selectivity (Q factor), so moving the tapping pont lower
down improves this situation. Every circumstance is bound to be
different though so the best balance has to be found by
experimentation. My crystal set has both the diode and the aerial
connected to the same tapping point on the coil, about a quarter of the
way down.
The modern 'standard
crystal set' shown above uses a Crystal Earphone, since suitable high
impedence magnetic headphones (of 2000 to 4000 ohms) are no longer
available. When using a cystal earpiece the 1000pF capacitior
shown in the first diagram can usually be omitted an in its place a 47k
ohm resistor is connected, this ensures that the Crystal Earphone will
work at its most efficient i.e. the sounds will be as loud as
possible. The resistor allows the current to flow through the
circuit more efficiently when using a crystal earphone. In
a
modern crystal set the detector used is a Diode. The most suitable
diodes are OA81, OA91 or IN94 which are widely available.
This
is a real working example of a crystal set. The large plastic
knob
on the front turns the variable tuning capacitor. This set
receives the three UK national stations and also three local radio
stations very well at my location.
There is a small 3.5mm jack socket mounted on the front of the plastic
case (MB5 from Maplin Electronics) that the crystal earphone plugs into.
The coil can be seen inside the case, it is 70 turns of 30 guage
enamelled copper wire wound around the centre of a toilet roll and
tapped every 10 turns, by scraping off the enamel insulation and making
a small twist.
The croc' clips can be seen clipped on to these twists to connect to
the aerial and detector tap points.
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A real working crystal
set. Radio as if by magic with no battery or mains power.
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| THE
MEDIUM WAVE COIL - MORE DETAILS |

PHOTO
SHOWING THE INSIDE OF THE COMPLETED
CRYSTAL SET
This set has a coil wound onto a toilet roll tube which consists of 70
turns of 30 s.w.g. (0.315mm dia) enamelled copper wire tapped at every
10 turns.
[It also has the additional small trimmer capacitor that helps match
the aerial to the tuned circuit thereby improving selectivity, see
below.]
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Medium Wave Coil
The number of turns of wire required on the coil will vary depending on
the size of the former (in this case the inside toilet roll) and the
thickness of the wire. So to obtain the correct coverage of the
medium wave band may need a little experimentation. I usually
find
that between 50 to 90 turns is right and I generally use enammelled
copper wire that is between 30 s.w.g. and 26 s.w.g (i.e. 0.315mm and
0.45mm diameter), so it's best to start with too many turns and then
work down.
The more turns that you use the lower the frequency range will be, i.e.
too many and the coverage of the top end of medium wave around 1500 -
1600 kHz will be lost, while too few and the coverage down to 500
kHz will be lost.
It is also important that the coil former is non conducting, ie not
metallic. It could be wood or cardboard or a short piece of PVC
piping and with a diameter of between 1½ and 4 inches (4 to 15
cm) are common sizes. You could try using a ferrite rod too, see
below:
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| USING A FERRITE ROD AS THE COIL FORMER |
The aerial coil could be wound onto a
ferrite rod.
A piece of
10mm diameter ferrite rod of between 3 and 6 inches long (80 to 150mm)
will be most suitable and will require between 50 and 90 turns of
enamelled copper wire to provide coverage of the medium wave band:
First make a paper tube that is held together with sticky tape
that will easily slide up and down the ferrite rod. Then wind the
coil over this with the windings neatly side by side. Make
tapping points every 10 or 15 turns so that the aerial and diode
tapping
points can be adjusted.
Adjustments to the tuning range can be made by removing some wire from
the coil so it is best to start off with too many turns and then work
down. Fine adjustments can be made to the completed coil by
sliding it up and down the ferrite rod.
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| AN IMPROVEMENT TO THE DESIGN |
The
crystal set above also has one small, but significant, improvement over
the standard crystal set and that is an Aerial Trimmer. A trimmer
is a variable capacitor, very similar to the tuning capacitor, except
smaller and adjusted with a screwdriver. The value of the trimmer
is usually around 20-200pF, but if a small tuning capacitor is
available
that will probably be just as effective. In the absence of such a
variable capacitor, individual fixed ceramic capacitors of e.g. 10pF,
50pF and 100pF can be tried in this position to see which gives the
best
results.
The trimmer capacitor
adjusts the coupling to the tuned circuit, reducing the load of the
aerial on the tuned circuit will improve the selectivity (Q), and it
will be easier to separate stations. Again tapping points are
used
and I find this to be an excellent arrangement.
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Improved Crystal Set
design, with good selectivity
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Layout Of The Crystal
Set - Although
this is soldered together an alternative to tagstrip would be a 5amp
mains connector block so that components can be trapped in place with
screws. See article below.
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The picture on the right shows the
general layout of the crystal set above. The coil is of
approximately 70 turns is wound on the centre of a toilet roll, and has
tapping points at 10 turn intervals.
The trimmer is soldered between the Aerial terminal and the piece of
5-way tag strip, and a wire goes from there to a croc' clip which is
clipped onto a tap on the coil. The Diode is also soldered onto
the tag strip, one end connected to a piece of wire going to a second
croc' clip & connected to a tapping point on the coil, the other
end
of the diode is connected to the 3.5mm jack socket that the Crystal
Earphone plugs into.
The 47k resistor is also connected to the earphone end of the diode and
goes to earth, the earth terminal wire is soldered to the tag strip at
this point too. The tuning capacitor has two terminals, one
connected to each end of the coil, and one of them is also connected to
earth as shown. [Where the wires cross over in the diagram, they
do not touch and are not connected together]. |
| LONG WAVES |
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In most areas around
Europe and certainly around much of the UK you will be able to hear a
Long Wave station. To receive Long Wave on a crystal set will
require an aerial coil with a greater number of turns to increase its
inductance.
As a good general guide a coil wound on a piece of 10mm diameter
ferrite rod will require about 250 turns of enamelled copper wire:
First make a paper tube that is held together with sticky tape
that will slide up and down the ferrite rod. Then wind the 250
turn coil over this, the windings will have to be made over the top of
each other. Make tapping points at, say, 50, 75 and 100
turns to tap the aerial and diode to.
As with the medium wave ferrite rod aerial, adjustments to the tuning
range can be made by adding or removing some wire from the coil, and
fine adjustments can be made to the completed coil by sliding it up and
down the ferrite rod. The longer the ferrite rod the better and
anything between 3 and 6 inches long (80 to 150mm) will be very good.
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| SHORT WAVES |
If
you like experimenting, then reducing the number of turns on the
coil to say 10 to 30 will allow reception of the higher
frequencies, the Short Waves. I have found that winding the coil
around a 'ferrite rod' often works even better with short wave
reception.
Obtain a ferrite rod about 7 to 15 cm long and about 1cm in
diameter. Make a couple of small tubes of card, about 4cm
long, that will fit tightly over the rod.
On one tube wind two coils using 0.5mm diameter enamelled copper wire -
one coil of about 30 turns and a second one of 2 or 3 turns wound over
the top of the first. Secure the windings in place with
sellotape.
On the other card tube wind a similar coil, but use about 15 turns for
the first coil and for the second coil wind about 3 to 4 turns over the
top, and secure with sellotape tape.
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Example of a layout using a connector block to wire up a crystal set
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These coils will provide
coverage of short wave in two bands using the first coil for the longer
wavelengths, typically 60 to 31 metre bands and the second coil for the
shorter wavelengths typically 25 to 19 metre band. Wire up the
circuit as shown in the circuit diagram below.
| USING A
TOROID INDUCTOR FOR SHORT WAVES |
Even better selectivity performance can be achieved by winding the
inductors (coils) on a ferrite toroids (T50-2 yellow, or green will
do).
The aerial trimmer need not be used if selectivity and sensitivity is
found to be adequate. It's all about experimenting, and I find it
best to use a trimmer or small coupling capacitor to obtain the best
selectivity.
Up to 30 turns of 0.5mm enamelled copper wire can be used for the
longer short waves below 10 MHz, while a winding of around 15 turns
will
provide coverage of the shorter short waves above 10MHz.

The circuit diagram of
the Short Wave Crystal Set
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A completed SW Crystal
Set using a toroid inductor. Note: the main winding has a tap to allow
the switch to short part of the winding and thereby give two ranges.
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| AUSTRALIAN
DESIGN |

The front panel of the
Australian Crystal Set
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Moving
back to the Medium Waves, here is a circuit for a very interesting
Australian design that promises extremely good station separation
(selectivity), and having built it I can vouch for that claim, it's
really excellent. I receive three national stations and
three local stations at my location with excellent clarity.
The coil is different to the other crystal sets described above, it is
much bigger at 3¼ inches (8cm) diameter and 5inches (12cm)
long. I made my coil former out of the cardboard from a breakfast
cereal box - just like Blue Peter!
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Two
distinct coils are wound on it, the first one consists of 50 turns of
24
s.w.g (approx) enemalled copper wire. The second coil is very
close wound right over the top of the first coil 30 s.w.g. (approx)
wire, try to get this second coil wound in between the windings of the
first, for better coupling.
Then carefully wire up the set according to the diagram. Notice
that the tuned circuit is not connected to earth and has no direct connection to the detector
circuit. The detector circuit is
connected to earth however. The two aerial terminals offer
alternative selectivity performance, terminal A gives very good
selectivity while B is very wide. I never bother with B.
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Make
the coil carefully and wire up this crystal set according to the
circuit
diagram opposite and you will be rewarded with a really high
performance
crystal set of a type that was used in the very early days of
broacasting in 1930's in Australia.
This is probably my favourite crystal set!
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| THE DENCO PCC1 COIL |
The
PPC1 coil was a commercially manufactured by Denco Clacton Ltd and was
popular among hobbyists not keen on going to the bother of winding
their
own fiddly little coils. As a child I wanted try one of these
coils and sent away for one by mail order. It arrived a few days
later in a little cloth bag, like a miniature pump bag, with protective
wrapping inside.
The coil windings are entirely enclosed
in what I can only describe as a cylindrical ferrite 'shell', the four
very thin connecting wires exiting, two either side, from small
appertures in the 'shell'. The performance of the circuit shown
below I seem to remember was quite pleasing. Unfortunately I
cannot find the set or the PPC1 coil at the moment, but here is a
reproduction of the circuit diagram and data:
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| THE REPANCO DRR1 COIL |
I
recently rediscovered an old Repanco DRR2 Longwave / Mediumwave
coil that must have been kicking around in my junkbox since the
1970's.
The DRR2 coil was made by Repanco in Coventry, and it did come with a
page of suggested circuit diagrams, but that seems to have long since
disappeared unfortunately.
Once again I included an aerial trimmer which can be adjusted to
improve selectivity.
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The circuit diagram of the crystal set
using the Repanco DRR2 coil
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A 'lash-up' of the
Repanco crystal set
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The Repanco DRR2 coil
was
probably intended for commercially produced valve radios, but I am not
sure. It consists of three coils; a Medium Wave coil at the top
that includes a tapping point (for the aerial); what seems to be a
coupling coil in the middle; a lower coil which can be connected in
series with to top coil to provide Long Wave reception.
I have built a quick crystal set with the coil and it provides good
reception with excellent selectivity, so it must have a very good Q
factor.
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| CRYSTAL
EARPHONES |
Here
is a good idea and well worth trying, to maximise the use of sound
output from your crystal set why not use dual crystal earphones?
Having an earphone in each ear helps to block out extraneous noises
helping the listener to better concentrate on any weaker stations
received.
Using the circuit below, one earphone makes use of one half cycle of
the radio wave while the second earphone uses the other half cycle of
the wave that would have previously gone to waste when using just one
diode. Ensure that the diodes are connected up according to the
diagram i.e. one diode is connected the opposite way round to the
other. Also try to make sure that the diodes and crystal
earphones
are similar to obtain the best results. (You could simply connect
two crystal earphones to the same terminals of the single diode, but
this would not be as efficient and the sounds would be much quieter.) |

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A note about Crystal
Earphones: It will be worthwhile buying several different
ones from different sources as performance varies between manufacturers
quite markedly. I have found the ones marked
'Japan' on the back are the most sensitive and therefore loudest,
whereas ones marked 'Receiver' 'Taiwan' are often a little less
sensitive and therefore quieter and sometimes more 'tinny' sounding.
| 'SPIDERS
WEB' COIL |
Here is an interesting
concept sent in by Chris Dorna of the Vught North Scouts in the
Netherlands. It is a crystal set made out of a coil wound in the
form of a spiders web:
See more HERE.
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Chris Dorna's Crystal
Set with Spider Web Coil
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Detail of the
germanium diode
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Close up of Chris
Dorna's Spider Coil
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| LOOP THE LOOP! |
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A crystal set can also be
made that does not need a large long wire aerial. If you have
ever
made a loop aerial for medium wave or long wave DX-ing, then it is a
simple matter to add a diode, resistor and a socket to connect a
crystal
earphone that will allow reception of nearby stations.
See my section on Loop Aerials and ATU's
for more constructional details.
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A portable loop
aerial, that incorporates a crystal set
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The
circuit diagram of the Loop Crystal Set. The loop is 10 turns of
7/0.2mm 'hook-up' wire wound on a 40cm (17") former made of
attractive plastic edging strip available from many DIY stores.
The loop is very directional in its pick up pattern, which can help
eliminate interference from some stations by rotaing the loop.
The
switch and additional capacitor allow tuning of the lower medium wave
band from about 650 to 520 kHz. Having a loop with 50 to 60 turns
of wire will tune into the Long Wave band.
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| SOLDERLESS
CONSTRUCTION IDEAS |
For
a novice the use of a soldering iron may seem a bit daunting at first
and while the most reliable results will be obtained with a good
soldered joint using a tag strip as shown below, the circuits can still
be made without the use of a soldring iron.
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5 WAY TAG STRIP
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36 WAY TAG STRIP -
TWO ROWS
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The very simplest circuits could be wired
together ,with a little ingenuity, with the component wires being held
together in the grip of solderless crocodile clips, whereby the
connecting hook-up wire is fixed to the croc' clip by a screw rather
than solder.
For more the slightly more complex
circuits a plastic Terminal Block (sometimes referred to as a choc' or
chocolate block) can be utilised very effectively indeed. These
are used in mains wiring and are available in various sizes; 2 Amp, 5
Amp, 15 Amp and 30 Amp. The 5 and 15 Amp Terminal Blocks I have
found to be the most suitable. The various component wires can be
trapped securely with the screw at each junction point. This
method also makes it easy to change the components around when
experiment with different circuits. See The EXPERMENTAL CRYSTAL SET for more details
in Part 5.
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'CHOCOLATE' TERMINAL
BLOCK
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The Ladybird book called 'Making A
Transistor Radio' (also shown on the TRF Radio
pages) detailed a very novel
approach using brass screws with screw-cups to trap the component wires
at each junction point:
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THE BRASS SCREW AND
SCREW-CUP METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION
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A VERY SIMPLE
CRYSTAL SET USING THE BRASS SCREW AND CUP METHOD |
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CRYSTAL
SETS Parts: 1 3 4
5
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|
Crystal
Sets Introduction |
Radio
Stations & Memorabilia |
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Resistor
Codes & Capacitor Conversion Tables
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Home
Page |
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LINKS:
BOWOOD
ELECTRONICS - A friendly, helpful
and very speedy source for many of your electronic components at prices
that won't frighten your wallet!
THE FOXHOLE and P.O.W
RADIOS - Simple crystal set receivers used by soldiers during the
war and by prisoners of war (P.O.W.'s).
CRYSTAL
SETS Parts: 1 3 4
5
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